Day Final
I woke up to the chilling air of cold nostalgia that blasted through our aged villa. After the morning rituals of masking the lack of hygiene that we all seemed to adopt in Panama, I jumped into the sluggish atmosphere outside. The bus awaited my arrival with open doors and a warm embrace of cotton cushions. But I was soon jostled from the arms of my comforter by the winding roads of the ambivalent mountains. The mist hung ominously over the peaks and veiled the sleeping woman outlined by the mountain tops. She took solace in the cold blanket of dulled diamonds. Our bus speed like a Diablo Rojo around the roller coaster roads of our destiny. Fate awaited us like a patient grandmother with a Christmas card. My eyes darted from face to face of my amigos. Most of them were blessed with the peace of sweet repose where there was once the evidence of a rough evening. I lack the words to fully capture the magic of the scenery that befell us on our journey. There was a battle between different terrains, all of which stood with breathtaking beauty of a titian. The light danced like fairies upon the water that we left behind us. I am doing an injustice by continuing to try and capture a beauty that not even photography could replicate.
We arrived at El Valle’s Hot Springs where therapeutic mud was plastered on our eager faces. Some creative youngsters decided to make designs (see pictures somewhere) of facial hair and war symbols. Some even ventured to spread their “post-modern artwork” to other parts of their body. Afterwards we embarked on another rollercoaster adventure to explore a canopy. Even a blogger of my lexicon does not possess the words to describe the scenery of the hike nor waterfall that greeted us. We had been given walking sticks to accompany us like faithful companions who gave us traveler’s advice on where to safely step. They were the Virgil to our Dante. After all we had been through I was not ready to give up my stick. I implored the unwavering man, the stoic stick keeper, to allow me to keep my faithful friend. He was unflinching in his resolve and denied my multiple requests. After I had resigned my desire to keep the walking stick and whispered my farewells, I handed my stick back to the man with a half-hearted Feliz Navidad. Those two words that evoke the spirit of a miraculous season unlocked the chains that tethered his kind heart. He handed me my stick back and smiled a warm smile. My heart rejoiced.
Afterwards we rolled on to a dusty market of genuine Panamanians. The prices were cheaper than a molasses on an igloo. We voraciously bought entire pineapples, savory sausages, and myriads of knickknacks. In all our tomfoolery, I had never fathomed that my future husband waited just down the road of destiny in the oppressive heat of Panamanian fate.
But seriously… I walked over to a small display of jewelry that was manned by two obviously hippy guys who were playing guitar. A single feather earring caught my eye. As I had been collecting tribal jewelry for the past ten days, I saw this one as a jewel in my collection. It reminded me of Pocahontas. Bruno and Ricardo, the two vendors who spoke to us in broken English, were from Brazil. They have been traveling for over a year just selling their hand made jewelry. Bruno told me that he normally sold that earring for 20 dollars but he enjoyed “talking” so I bargained. Take off a zero I said as they both chuckled at what they considered to be a joke. I told them that they stole the feather from a bird so it must not have cost that much to make. They said that they do not steal anything but take the gifts that nature had given them. He told me that it was not fair for me to take the item for ten. I said that he does not steal from nature, nor should he steal from me. After many laughs and some business we arrived at a compromise. Twelve dollars and he would make me a surprise. After some tinkering behind his makeshift stand, Bruno forged a ring. He told me that I am a natural woman and that at that particular moment he loved me. He asked me to marry him. After videos were recorded and pictures were taken, we said our goodbyes. I never answer his question.
We ate on a beach whose sand contained traces of uncapturable diamond and whose waves were as fierce as the wrath of the jungle. Afterwards we stopped at El Rey, the local super market. For the entire vacation, for every ten bucks we spent, we get a sticker. The stickers were placed in booklets of 40. Each booklet could be traded for items in a knife set. I had collected the entire set except for the items the store had run out of. This El Rey was not where we usually stopped and it contained the black box that all the knives were held in. I was 38 stickers short from obtaining it. I was disheartened beyond belief. So close and yet so far away. Yet I received positive reinforcement from all my peers. “We’ll do it. Don’t worry. We’ll get it.” And sure enough, through some sort of miracle of friendship and consumerism, we got enough stickers. My set, as well as my life, was complete. Tears welled in my eyes as I recognized the accidental community that we had forged in the fires of Panama. The community we built could not be broken or dissolved. We loved each other.
Day 8 (The Last Day): El Valle
We visited El Valle- a town in Panama. The bus ride up was absolutely beautiful. There were hills and mountains everywhere, with diverse flora adorning them. The only way I can think to describe the mountains is "lumpy". For some reason, the mountains here in Panama don't look craggy like the Rockies or rolling like the Appalachians. They're lumpy and a bit misshapen. And the trees growing on these mountains aren't nearly as uniform as I expected- it seemed as though no tree species repeated twice. There were yellow-greens and reds and browns and pinks and forest greens. Puffy, white clouds hung about the tips of the highest mountains.
As we drove around, we wondered at both the natural beauty of the place (which I've described), and all the gorgeous homes present. I found my dream home (I'll attach a picture later), as did Hugo. I'm pretty sure all of us picked a favorite at one point. Clearly, this is where the wealthy of Panama live. It was a bit sad to consider this in contrast with the poverty so prevalent elsewhere in Panama.
First, we got mud masks at a small place in the mountains. Since there were two colors of mud, we made designs on our faces... and our bodies. Many of us made mustaches and beards, some imitated war paint. I proudly decorated Jeff and Patrick a la "Jeff $" and Pocahontas, respectively, as shown in the picture (thanks to Christie for the picture).

After that, we went on a short hike around a creek. It was so beautiful- we walked through rope bridges, over rocky creeks, down stone stairs, and all around this towering waterfall. Needless to say, there were a lot of pictures taken.We then visited a local market to shop for some souvenirs. Immediately after we got out of the bus, there were two men selling small meat kebabs, cooked over a tiny charcoal stove- for only 35 cents! Nearly all of us tried some, and it was quite delicious. While we're not sure exactly what kind of meat it was (they called it "carne"... but nearly all meats are called that), we did enjoy the experience, and no one got sick (as far as I know).
Surprisingly, there were a few handicraft stands run by hippies at this market. By hippies, I mean soft-spoken, "chill" young men with dreads playing the guitar... not exactly what I was expecting to find in Panama. Most of them were backpackers/nomads selling really interesting handmade jewelry. The people at this market were really friendly, and were exceedingly willing to strike up conversations with us, wanting to know about our trip and our backgrounds. Robin even got a marriage proposal from one of them! You can read more about that in her blog.
Next, we went to the beach. We swam in the Pacific Ocean (a first for some), playing in the rough surf while waiting for our food to be ready at a restaurant on the beach. At one point, we stood in a circle and randomly joined hands, so as to create a "human knot". This "knot" was tossed about the shoreline, causing a few bruises and a lot of laughs.
We closed out our trip to Panama by making fajitas and creating paper plate awards for each other, assigning assorted superlatives related to different inside jokes and events over the course of the trip.
Now, as I realize that I'll be home in twelve hours (which is a nice feeling), I know how much I'm going to miss Panama, the villas, the lukewarm showers, the ridiculous songs on the buses, Genato from Nutre Hogar, the plentiful seafood, and... all of my fellow classmates. We had so much fun, and learned so much on this trip. Thank you, guys.
In conclusion- Que Xopa!
Saturday
The last day
Today has been by far one of the best days of the trip. The morning began at the crack of dawn to be taken away to El Valle. After a quick stop at El Rey, the trip was a go! We traversed over the newly built bridge the spans over the canal. Interestingly enough, Bianca informed us that the architects of the bridge were German. I was surprised that a Panamanian architect was not chosen, but maybe in this situation the Germans have a superior design and quality. After the two hour bus ride, we were finally at our first destination of the day- the volcanic mud spa.
In the spirit of things, everyone donned their mud masks, some with slightly more humourous designs than others, posed for pictures and goofed around while waiting for the mud to dry. About twenty minutes later, we washed away the hardened mud to reveal “cleaned” faces. Several people felt their faces were immediately softer and healthier looking than arriving. Either way, the mud spa was good fun for the first spot of the day.
After leaving the mud spa, Bianca informed us of a nature hike that was along the way. In the spirit of the last day, everyone agreed to partake in the hike through the Panamanian jungle and across the rickety bridges to witness the waterfall. Although relatively short in contrast to other hikes I have been on, the hike was enjoyable and allowed us to see a different side of Panama – the tropical jungle that it still is. Although the bridges were deemed “safe,” they were relatively decrepit with signs clearly depicting that “No persons more than 5 at anytime” and “No Jump.” It was a completely enjoyable experience, ever with one of us receiving a complimentary walking stick.
Leaving the jungle hike, the group regrouped and headed to the local market. This market, although smaller than the others visited, was more diverse, priced reasonably, and was a heck of a lot busier than the others. The market was vibrant and filled with street peddlers hawking kebab’d meats and street jewelry. This was one of the few places where I was able to actually mingle with locals and some of those who were just passing through. The two jewelry vagabonds were by far the craziest and yet most comical people I have met this entire trip. The two are originally from Brazil and they are just traveling all over, selling jewelry to make money and continuing on.
The last stop of the day was at the beach, which was amazing. The water was rough, but the people there for the journey made it all that much more exciting. The food at the restaurant was good and consistent with how cheaply priced Panama has been. After a good lunch and a quick dip, the trip came to a close and we all coalesced again in the van headed to the last El Rey visit of the trip. The trip was a group effort in order for Robin to get complete Knife set with the cutting board and the knife holder. All in all, the day was a complete success only to be built upon by the last night of group cooking – Fajitas to be exact.
Day 7
Today we first went to the US Embassy here in Panama. My first thoughts about the Embassy were about how large and impressive looking it was. We had seen the French Embassy earlier this week and the US Embassy was about twice the size of the French Embassy. When we entered the Embassy security was really tight we had to turn in our passports and then be escorted to the room where we were meeting the Ambassador and a panel of other people who worked in the Embassy. The meeting was very informative. It was really interesting to learn about what the Embassy does in Panama and how life is for people who work at the Embassy. I never really thought about how the people who work at the Embassies move around so much. It was also really great that we were able to meet the Ambassador and that she took the time to talk to us.
After the Embassy we went to eat lunch at Pencas. It was a great restaurant with a terrific view of the water. The food was also delicious.
We then went to the Hospital Punta Pacifica. I had been looking forward to this visit. The hospital was not what I was expecting though. The technology in the hospital had been what I thought it would be, but the hospital it self was different. The hospital was huge and only had about 64 beds, and they were about 70% full most of the time. The hospital also seemed to be more focused on the aspect of health tourism than on helping the people who already live in Panama. I just think that a hospital with so many resources should be accessible to more people. It seems wasteful that not very many people use the hospital. It was different from what I expected.
Day 6: Nutre Hogar and Smithsonian
Having spent the last two days of service at Casa Esperanza and getting to know the children there, I felt that nothing could compare to that and I wasn't expecting to have such a good connection, but we were all pleasantly suprised.
Today when we played with the children it was obvious how happy it made them, at the same time everyone of us were also really happy to be playing with them and we all sort of brought out our parental insticts; somehow we just knew what the right thing to do to make the babies feel better. This was especially true of Hugo and Edilio, we had all heard about Edilio and how close Hugo had gotten to him in March but it was just so amazing to finally see them together and how they made eachother light up. We fed, bathed, put them to baed and played with them some more. When it came time to leave it was as if the babies sensed that we were coming back and they cryed hysterically.
The Smithsonian turned out to be alot more interesting that we expected. When we got there we browsed the bookstore, then we were given a tour of the library. One of the chemists there later gave a Powerpoint presentation, she told us about some the research that is currently taking at various places in Panama and that it is even possible for us to do reasearch there if it interested us. This had really sparked my interest because I have been wanting to spend some time in a Spanish speaking country but if I can also do research at the same time them it would be an even bigger advantage. I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings, im sure it will be very exciting.
Day 6
Day 5:Casa Esperanza y Policlinic
After Casa Esperanza, we took a tour of a policlinic, which is part of the Ministry of Health. The building was interesting. The hallways were open and you could see outside. It was not enclosed, but the individual offices had air conditioning. It was different than anything I have ever experienced, especially a medical facility. This clinic was a second level so it had a lot of specialty areas. There was physical therapy, public health, mental health, general medicine, internal medicine, gyneocology, etc etc etc. One thing that struck me was that the physical therapy was done on the 3rd floor and they have no elevators!!! Our tour was very detailed and much less rushed compared to yesterday's children's hospital visit. The medicine at the clinic is VERY cheap as well as the cost of visits, which maxes out at $2. The pharmacist said that a medicine that costs $0.05 in the clinic costs $80 in the US. That is crazy!! What a drastic difference! The clinic was not busy at all except for the 1st floor. They said that it's never very busy in December because everyone is too busy with Christmas and what not to go to the doctor. Heffy said it best today during reflection that this trend reflects their culture. This slow business would not be the same in America.
It is definitely a different world in Panama compared to Florida, but I am enjoying learning about it. I feel myself adapting. I say basic words in eSpanish (like si y gracias y permiso) without even thinking or realizing it. It has become more natural to me. Maybe I am a Panamanian at heart. OK maybe not but I am on my way :)
Day 5
Day 4 : Casa Esperanza
It took us quite a while to find Casa Esperanza, where I volunteered, which was somehow hidden and tucked away on a main street we had to have passed AT LEAST 5 times. I'll admit that I was a little taken aback by the humble size of the house; for some reason I was expecting it to be roomier or have more property to play on outside, and it upsets me that places with such good intentions can't always afford to provide all that they want to. That being said, I think they do a great job making the best of what they do have. Some of my classmates went outside to play soccer with the older kids, but I enjoyed playing board games and Uno with all of the incredibly adorable young ones there, and I look forward to heading back tomorrow for our dental hygiene presentation : )
One thing in particular that I liked about the kids at Casa Esperanza (and one of the main reasons I chose this site to work at) is that we got to communicate with them, and in Spanish. I was able to learn about them and teach them games, words, and a little about the United States with the aid of some classmates and a map we brought. They were so interested to hear about us and see our cameras, cell phones, ipods, and blonde hair (haha, Rachel!). I wish we had more time to establish relationships with everyone there though, because I feel like we're just sort of "passing through". While we may only be able to donate a minimal amount of our time, it is nice to know that we were able to help by also purchasing basic supplies from the local mall like toothpaste, wet wipes, soccer balls, games, etc. for the children. I'm sure my classmates agree when I say I wish there was more I could do for these organizations though.
Because Hannah covered almost everything about the rest of our day, I'll contribute some pictures!

A hallway at Hospital del Niño

Casco Viejo

Shopping for supplies at Albrook Mall.
Nutre Hogar, Hospital del Ninos, Casco Viejo
We left our villas in Ciudad del Saber around 7:30 this morning and split in two groups to go to Nutre Hogar and Casa Esperanza. I went to Nutre Hogar, a center that takes in malnourished children and babies and educated their families about health and nutrition. Thanks to Wuesthoff (and Erin and her mom) and a woman who put scrubs on Tampa's Freecycle, we were able to bring the nurses there almost 100 scrub tops and 50 bottoms.
After a tour, we played with the kids (about 1-3 years old) in an outside play area they have. All of them seemed happy we were there. Some would run up and jump on us, and others were quiet and content just sitting and playing alone. The nurses there seemed like they were happy for a break and were glad we played with the children, but they also seemed tired and worn out. I played with a little girl who was very quiet and seemed bored. She was probably about 2 years old, but she didn't talk much. None of the kids did, but they were generally happy and smiling. A woman there told us they cry like crazy when parents leave, then cry like crazy when they leave Nutre Hogar.
Also in the play area was an older boy who is partially paralyzed. He has been there since he was young — probably more than 10 years — and was there when the honors group visited in spring. Though it is sad that he is still there, it's nice to know that he has somewhere that accepts and takes care of him. He was also happy to throw a tennis ball around with us and thought it hilarious when it hit us in funny places, like our head, or when we couldn't catch it, or when we had to jump or crawl to get it. It was fun to watch him play and sad to see his face when we had to leave.
There was also a paralyzed boy upstairs at Nutre Hogar, where babies were taken care of. It was sad to see that he had such a small bed, and we've talked about possibly getting him something bigger with some of the money we've raised. It's hard to tell if they can accomodate a larger bed, though. It's hard, too, because it needs some sort of railing on it. But we will see what we can do and talk to the women there tomorrow...
Others took care of the babies upstairs, feeding them and holding them. There are only a few nurses, so it was hard for them to take care of the babies and hold them enough. But they do what they can with what they have, and it seemed as if the extra hands today were helpful.
After Nutre Hogar and Casa Esperanza, we visited the Hospital del Niño (which is actually on a 25-cent Balboa here). I think our general impression of the hospital was that it was less "sanitary" than U.S. hospitals — many of the windows were open, the floors weren't spotless, the walls were painted and paint was chipping, and much of the furniture was outdated. The areas for people also seemed very crowded. There were many more people hovering and waiting throughout... but other areas were very empty. At the same time, though, it felt more comfortable, like there wasn't as much worry or stress. Basically, it didn't feel like what most Americans might think of when they hear the word "hospital." But the doctor who showed us around was interested in her work and speaking with us, and overall it seemed as if the hospital could adequately provide the care needed to the people there. For people in more rural areas, though, there are some drawbacks. There were hardly any private rooms, even for intensive care patients. When we looked through the windows, there was a bed, parent, bed, parent, bed, for rows in certain wards. But again, despite the circumstances that might seem strange to us, the people seemed content, and the children seemed well taken-care-of. There are also "houses" for families who travel a long way to seek care. The doctor told us a really common problem was children in rural areas falling in hot pots or cooking fires. It's interesting to see that there are much different health issues here.
The hospital was in a really busy area of Panama City. There were street vendors set up all around, the hospital goes over a busy street, and the cars and buses are relentless. It might be difficult for people to actually access the hospital.
We drove to Casco Viejo next, which is the older, downtown area of the city. The buildings there were beautiful and old. Many, under a government resolution, are undergoing restoration. There was a lot of construction. We couldn't find the restaurant we originally were scheduled to go to, so we went to "Tomato," a tiny restaurant on the bottom floor of apartments that could barely accommodate us. Their food was good, but still not the unique "Panamanian" food I think we are all craving. Then we walked around. There were brick roads, people in dirty clothes, people in business suits, military and police men, dogs, cats, old buildings, new buildings, French buildings, rain, sun, tourists, shops, locals, building remains turned into an art gallery, water, crabs, kids peeing in an old swimming pool, birds, Kuna women, a shaved ice vendor who let us shave our own ice (it was much more delicious than American ones and had condensed milk on top), statues, plaques, the presidential palace, a "Hannukah bush," crazy drivers, and more. It was an interesting experience and one that helped us learn a lot more about the history and living conditions of Panama.
Half of us went to the Albrook mall to purchase items for the kids at Casa Esperanza and Nutre Hogar. We were told items that each of them need and we also picked up a few things we thought would be good for them to have. Soap, shampoo, vitamins, deodorant, toothpaste, floss, medicine, formula, diapers, a blender, a DVD player, basketball, soccer ball and nets, lotion, wipes, band aids, gauze, Lysol, and some other items like that. Hopefully these items will really benefit them. They are many simple things, but things that are needed nonetheless.
Thank you for all the donations through our bowling fundraiser and "paint your professor" fundraiser -- we really wouldn't be able to do this without everyone's help.
We've got another full schedule tomorrow. Also, the lottery drawing is tomorrow! I bought a lottery ticket for $1 yesterday, so I am interested to see how it works here (and to win).
Sorry for the lack of pictures... we should have more soon as they are uploaded to the internet.
Day 3 - Miraflores Locks
That afternoon we took two buses to the neighboring Miraflores Locks. The food at the restaurant was delicious, leaving our stomachs full and happy (for the most part). From the balcony at the Miraflores Restaurant, we enjoyed a panoramic view of the locks. As we watched the Island Princess pass through, I was astounded at the fact that they were able to steer it through with such precision. Furthmore, the mechanism by which the water levels were lowered and the locks opened was far more impressive to see in person. As the announcer kept up a commentary from a table not too far away, I caught her recounting a recent record-breaker. A Norwegian had recently paid $488,000 to pass through the canal! The numbers involved in this great engineering feat were certainly mind-boggling.
Also mind-boggling (though in a completely different way) was the size of the insects dwelling in Panama's forests. While the large, iridescent butterflies would have been a treat to see, I would not want to find some of those bed bugs or cockroaches crawling around in my bed at night. All horror aside, Panama has a truly awe-inspiring array of flora and fauna with an equally magnificent (as Victoria put it) canal.
Panama Canal- Miraflores Lock
We then loaded into vans and drove across the street (literally) to the Miraflores Lock, which is part of the Panama Canal. Our proximity to such an amazing structure is astounding. A lot of us were introduced to new foods at the restaurant, and honestly, I can't remember the names of any of the new foods I tried. Some of the dishes were delicious, while others didn't sit well with everybody. While we were eating, we were able to look out the window and see boats going through the canal. Stepping outside, we saw the water levels rise and fall as the lock opened and closed to allow boats through. The Island Princess, a large cruise ship, went through the lock as we watched. The people on the boat were smiling and waving at us, and we were smiling and waving back, both parties entertaining the other. The announcer gave information about each boat that passed through and how much it cost them. The Island Princess, for example, paid $288,000 to pass. I thought it was amazing that passage through the canal brings in about $4 million a day. We then watched a movie about the history of the canal and how it works. We explored the museum and learned a lot about the construction of the canal, and about the flora and fauna one might encounter in Panama. I would never want to have an encounter with some of the bugs they had on display! It was really amazing to see such an enormous structure that plays such an important role in connecting the world and is so important to Panama's economy.
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